Description
Winemaker Notes
Thorevilos was one of David's favorite haunts as a child. There were no vines then. Just pine trees, redwoods, an old olive grove. And a rusted hog wire hanging from a tree—“Hook Man” in Abreu family lore. These days it's the dirt that engrosses him. White tufa that turns to fine powder when you grind it beneath your foot. Tannish soil peppered with orange-brown pebbles. Streaks of dry, red earth. Sitting 800 feet above the valley floor, wedged between the St. Helena and Howell Mountain AVAs, Thorevilos doesn't belong to any sub-appellation. “It's an outlier,” David says. When the AVA boundaries were being determined, he could have argued to have it included. “But it wouldn't have made any difference to the vineyard. Or the wine.”
Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cabernet Franc, 15% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec
Critical Acclaim
Probably one of my favorite vineyards in all of Napa Valley, even though it is not entitled to any particular AVA designation, is the steep hillside vineyard behind the luxury resort of Meadowood in St. Helena called Thorevilos. It is co-owned by David Abreu and Ric Forman. I have now tasted 16 vintages of this wine, and six and possibly seven (the 2015) have merited perfect scores, which is just mind-boggling even to someone who has been doing this for 38+ years. This wine contains a considerable quantity of Cabernet Franc (probably 30% or more, although Abreu and Grimes are never specific) and there may even be a small percentage of Petit Verdot included in the blend. This is always the most floral of the Abreu wines, but it also has what the French call je ne sais quoi, a quality that is hard to pin down. The 2015 Thorevilos is, like its siblings, inky blue/black/purple, with incredible amounts of flamboyant, majestic blueberry, blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with raspberries, spring flowers, wet rocks, truffles and foresty notes. Incredibly intense on the palate, the blueberry and graphite character seems to come forward along with a suggestion of toast. It is an amazingly viscous, thick and juicy wine, but it cuts a ballerina’s silhouette across the palate, as there is no heaviness or boredom. This is an exhilarating elixir – no doubt about it. Moreover, it is another 50-year wine.
Range: 99-100
Range: 99-100
Another perfect wine, the 2015 Thorevilos comes in at 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cabernet Franc, 15% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec. This riveting wine boasts heavenly notes of blueberries, cassis, camphor, graphite, and forest floor, with more floral nuances developing with time in the glass. With full body, a powerful, stacked, intense profile, shocking elegance and purity, and a massive finish, hide bottles for 4-5 years if you can – count yourself lucky – and enjoy bottles for just about as long as you'd like.
